Tailoring Identities. Pour une histoire de la masculinisation de la mode féminine/The long history of the masculinisation of womenswear (INHA Paris)
Journées d’étude TAILORING IDENTITIES
Pour une histoire de la masculinisation de la mode féminine / The long history of the masculinisation of womenswear
30 juin & 1er juillet 2025
Galerie Colbert (INHA)
16 rue des Petits-Champs, Paris 2e
Sans inscription
Organisé par Marta Franceschini, Émilie Hammen et Marine Kisiel
DAY 1 – 30 June 2025
9:00 – 9:30 Registration
9:30 – 10:00 Opening Remarks
Panel 1: Material Histories – crafting gender through fabric and form
10.00 – 10.15 Valerio Zanetti –The evolution and significance of women’s equestrian habits in Louis XIV’s France.
10.15 – 10.30 Heather Belnap – “La Parisienne’s Armor: Women’s Appropriation of Military Dress in Late Napoleonic France”
10.30 – 10.45 Alison Matthews David – Women with a Point: Swordswomen, Seamstresses and Accessories to Crime.
10:45 – 11:15 Coffee Break
11.15 – 11.30 Marie McLoughlin – The Empress and the English Tailor: Empress Eugenie and Henry Creed.
11.30 – 11.45 Fiona Anderson – Fashionable Tailoring, Gender and British Wool Textile Design
11:45 – 12:30 Round-table discussion
12:30 – 14:00 Lunch break
Panel 2: Movement and the Body – tailoring mobility and authority
14.15 – 14.30 Cally Blackman – Changing Habits
14.30 – 14.45 Hannah Rumball-Croft – The Ladies Ulster in the 1870s and 1880s: From “Eccentric-looking” to “beau ideal”
14.45 – 15.00 Bruna Holderbaum – Réformer c’est masculiniser ?
15:00 – 15:30 Coffee Break
15.30 – 15.45 Raissa Bretaña – Pantalette Suffragette: Dress, Gender Politics, and the American Women’s Suffrage Movement
15.45 – 16.00 Marie Bouchard – La voyageuse aux colonies (1920-1940) : une New Woman qui se professionnalise dans le secteur de l’aventure en empruntant le vestiaire masculin
16:00 – 16:45 Round-table discussion
16.45 – 18:00 Drinks
DAY 2 – 1 July 2025
Panel 3: Subversion and Cross-dressing – constructing alternative femininities
09.30 – 09.45 Natacha Aprile – « Pour ses habits, elle est tantôt homme tantôt femme »: le vêtement androgyne de Christine de Suède et son évolution
09.45 – 10.00 Pauline Deschamps-Kahn – Circulations et emprunts entre le vestiaire féminin et le vestiaire masculin en Italie au début du XVI e siècle: des sources textuelles aux représentations picturales
10.00 – 10.15 Olga Khoroshilova – “Amazons, tomboys and sailors. Russian female cross-dressers in 19th-early 20th century and their representation in photography of the period”
10:15 – 10:45 Coffee Break
10.45 – 11.00 Amy De la Haye – Gluck: Dress & Identity
11.00 – 11.15 TBC
11:15 – 12:00 Round-table discussion
12:00 – 14:00 Lunch break
Panel 4: Cultural Echoes – gendered dress in print, media, and memory
14.00 – 14.15 Stephanie Lever – Tailoring the Teddy Girls: Subculture, Gender, and the Construction of Utopia in 1950s London
14.15 – 14.30 Lola Charnay – La lesbienne masculine : une image de la décadence fin-de-siècle dans la presse illustrée
14.30 – 14.45 Sarah Banon – La virilisation en revue(s)
14.45 – 15.00 Anna Hanchett – Sartorial Becomings: Women, Tailored Suits, and Feminine Difference
15.00 – 15.45 Round-table discussion
15.45 – 16:15 Coffee break
16:15 – 16.45 Concluding remarks
16:45 – 17:15 Towards Vestiaire Dissident